CD
Chindata Group Holdings Ltd - ADR
stock NASDAQ ADR

So how would you “embed” this?
Do you mean make a code change which is then reviewed and pushed through a CI/CD pipeline which is part of the SDLC process?

FWIW - opening a bank account to buy a CD may not be the most efficient way if you plan to invest in CDs regularly or to create a CD ladder. You may want to explore investing at a brokerage instead. Most decent brokers provide access to brokered CDs.
And you don't run into issues with moving your funds around if you decide on CD products from different banks.

Bank of America is horrible. They will rob you blind with all kinds of hidden fees.
I would try to find a credit union with a good reputation for a CD.
**Not financial advice disclaimer**
I normally would suggest "investing" in the stock market, an ETF that follows the S&P 500 and pay dividends($SPY $SPX, ect)is a great option. Even though now the S&P is under $4000 and shares of $SPY are under $400, I do think the chances of a further correction are high and do think we will see another dip before the stock markets "grows" again. Long term it is great, but you freak out if you bought $SPY today a $396, only for it to fall to $330 in 6 months...that said, if you buy now and we are at $450 in 6 months you will be up way more than any CD plus collecting dividends.
While I may get hate for this, Robinhood is actually a good way to start. Your deposit is automatically in a "savings account" that pays better than most banks, you can get a debit card through them and there are ZERO brokerage fees. Dividends either go straight to your balance or can be used to by more shares or fractions as they allow you also buy fractional shares.
Again *not financial advice*! If you do go the stock market route, please do some research and not blindly buy....unless you plan on purchasing say X amount of the $SPY ETF every month and just forget about it until you need the money which is actually a great way to "play the market".

This is a great question and I've been wondering myself, no one actually answered the question below.
The spirit of this question is about how often the CDs actually get called before maturity. Is there any historical record to see what has happened in the past with callable CDs? We might even see some pattern of some lenders calling CDs early when rates move in their favor while perhaps others do not. This would be really helpful information when considering a callable CD.

Here's what I would do with $50k. Buy 5 $10k CDs (or 10 $5k CDs) earning 5% or more from different banks on Fidelity. If you need some cash for expenses you can close out 1 CD and pay the early withdraw penalty.

One is a time deposit account, so the rate is guaranteed for the term. You can also find HYSA or no penalty time deposit accounts (CDs) that are close to 5%. For example, Ally bank offers 4.75% on a no penalty CD. These are reputable banks or credit unions that dont engage in shenanigans.

Generally speaking it can be difficult to get out of a CD as it is up to the bank on if they will let you out and at what penalty rate. They are a contract between you and the bank after all. TD I think mostly acts as a broker of CDs between you and other banks which means you have an additional intermediary.
As for treasuries, they have the most liquid and deep secondary market in the world full stop, so it is very easy to trade in and out of treasuries basically at will even more easily than equities.

If panic is in your investing vocabulary then maybe CD's would be a better choice.
Buy whenever everyone else is panic selling.
Sell whenever everyone else is gloating.
Not my original quote btw. But true.

No penalty 11mo CD - 4.75% @ Ally

Another way to keep your money safe if you buy CDs is to get them through different banks, if you have more than $250K to invest. The FDIC insurance is $250K for each CD issuing bank, not the brokerage holding the account. Look for FDIC coverage in the notes when you go to buy your CD and don't buy more than $250K worth of CDs from any single bank.

Interest from CDs is subject to state / local taxes whereas US Treasuries (or related funds) are not. So, getting a slightly lower rate on Treasuries could be better than a higher CD rate given your tax situation.

If not doing a CD ladder, why not just buy an Ally no penalty CD. That's currently offering 4.75% for an 11 month term and you can withdraw your funds after 6 days penalty free.

"Laddered" CDs are just CDs that you buy in specific timings, you can do a CD ladder anywhere you can buy CDs.
That said, Schwab has a ladder builder tool that's useful.

So then what? 4% CD with a “reported” inflation rate of 6% (try 10% at minimum) Keep your own money tied up in accounts in unstable markets? No one saying go all in 100% precious metals, but it should be the foundation of your wealth in order to preserve it. It makes no sense to park your money in accounts you can’t touch that yield lower interest than inflation….

S&P is based on largest market capilization. If the interest is almost free cost of borrowing is low they can continue report stellar profits. Currently top **6** of 500 stocks comprise of **19.4**% of total S&P 500 weight with Google company counted 4 times because it includes derivatives.
That is why these tech companies pulling the most weight realize to sustain they must reduce cost by letting go 10,000s, building closings to manage the cost structure to pay current borrowing rate from bonds issued. Some of the heavy weighters like Tesla can be quickly be feather weight with the popularity of eVs. During a decline these growth stocks fall miserably as -19% return was realized after interest hike.
The S&P return has been around +7.6% since its inception. During higher interest often returns negative. So you can project (1+.076)\^(7)=1.605X not adjusted for inflation. This is just better than today's ibond or CD rate. Nothing spectacular. Hope that clarifies the confusion.

Ally has 11 month 4.75% no penalty CD.

Well a bond etf is not a cash equivalent. You can still get ~4.4% on a money market and ~5% on CD/treasuries though

The point is to lock in rates for longer duration.
In 1981, you can walk into Bank of America or Chase and get a 5 year CD for a cool 18% APY.
If 5 year is too short, on Oct 1st 1981, you can buy 30 year treasury with 15.21% coupon rate.

Try googling <name> cd early withdrawal
According to Schwab: “We'll help you sell the CD at the current market rate by requesting bids on your CD and contacting you with the highest one. If you decide to sell, you'll receive the bid price plus any accrued interest. There are no guarantees that you'll get what you originally paid for the CD.”
If you think you’ll need the cash sooner then select a shorter term like 3 months or a MM fund. Or find an online bank.
Many people, like myself, haven’t done CDs until recently when rates shot up. They didn’t make sense. I’m kinda glad the FDIC didn’t offer “global insurance” on all deposits, then there would be no incentive for banks to offer decent interest on deposits
Don’t forget about Series I bonds, but max is $10k / yr and you’ll need to hold for at least a year.

lol. I feel embarrassed calling them about 1 quantity worth 1000 USD of CD.
But I guess I should ask them.