HYSA
BondBloxx USD High Yield Bond Sector Rotation ETF
stock NYSE ETF

Interest from a HYSA is usually subject to state income tax. Alternatively, treasury only money market funds are usually excluded. Double check with an accountant or lookup your state’s tax code. You may find it’s better to park your money in an investment account or CMA.

Hey, I think you are doing super well to not be in debt (other than student loans of course).
Will you find it easy to get a new job? If it won't be easy, don't leave your government job until you have something lined up.
Here's some thoughts (some parts cribbed from The Money Guy show) on what you might do financially.
1. Start by figuring out what your highest insurance deductible is: health insurance? Auto insurance? Renter's insurance? Whatever that highest number is, that is your first savings goal. Open a savings account at wherever your checking account is and start regular contributions to that: whatever you can afford in order to get that first savings goal met.
2. Keep contributing to the 457b. Do you get an employer match? If so, you may want to cut back your contribution for a little bit to just be contributing enough to get the full match. Otherwise, you may want to cut back a few hundred dollars or percentage points, enough to move on to step 3:
3. Start filling up your emergency fund. You can do this at an online HYSA (Ally, Marcus, Wealthfront, etc.). Figure out the amount you can spare each month/paycheck in order to quickly meet your emergency fund goal without going into any sort of financial distress. Your emergency fund could be anywhere from 3 - 9 months of your regular expenses. The budgeting you've been doing will help you figure out your monthly expenses. Personally I think 4 months is a good goal to shoot for. I might use any funds you get from liquidating your brokerage for your emergency fund. That will make the saving go much faster.
4. Once you get your emergency fund fully funded, go back and increase your contributions to the 457. You might also want to consider opening a Roth IRA. You can do that (and your emergency fund if you want) at Robinhood, though I would recommend Fidelity, Schwab, Vanguard, E\*Trade, or Chase.
5. Overall, between your 457 (or other workplace plan if you do move on) and any Roth IRA, you want to be investing 15% of your gross income for retirement. 20% is better, but if you can get to 15%, that's fine at least for now.
6. Once you have your emergency fund and are investing at least 15% of your income for retirement, then you can think about additional financial goals like saving for a house down payment.
I think you are doing better than you think you are. I am not sure how old you are but I am willing to bet you are doing better than I was at your current age. And I am doing just fine now that I am closer to retirement.

Fidelity isn't a bank. How do I know? When I inquired why a transfer from a cash-management account took nearly two weeks to complete, the Fidelity rep told me "Fidelity is not a bank."
If you want true liquidity, go with a HYSA with a bank. I've used CFG Bank for years; it's currently paying 3.8$ and consistently has one of the highest rates in the US.

Not that taxes are the only consideration, but qualified dividends get the same tax rates as long term capital gains (0%, 15%, 20%); interest does not.
Plus, HYSA interest adjusts with prevailing interest rates. It’s typically around 3.5% now, but may not be there in a year or two.

This is a common question we get, and I'm more than happy to shed light on it, u/farfanseaweevil.
While we do not have a High-Yield Savings Account (HYSA) as you would find at a bank, Fidelity offers many types of retirement and non-retirement brokerage accounts with interest-bearing "core" positions. Any cash deposited is automatically held in the core, which accrues interest daily and is paid to the account at the end of the month. You can learn more about how the core position works and the interest rates of the ones available at Fidelity through the following link.
[Trading FAQs: About Your Account](https://www.fidelity.com/trading/faqs-about-account#faq_about2)
You can also view all the types of accounts we offer and determine which best fits your specific needs on the page linked below.
[Open an account](https://www.fidelity.com/open-account/all-accounts)
If you have any additional questions, let me know!

Ended up going with SGOV for my emergency fund. I'm still leaving $10K in my HYSA just for ease of access, especially if/when I'm overseas and may have trouble accessing my brokerage, but the remaining $30K of the fund will be sitting in SGOV for tax purposes.

Fidelity cash management accounts (CMA) are basically HYSA in everything but name.
https://www.fidelity.com/spend-save/fidelity-cash-management-account/overview
You can probably get better rates from other institutions, but if you like Fidelity it’s a no brainer.

Does Fidelity have a HYSA that’s liquid?

Nope. Learn now.
Doesn’t have to be much - just learn the ropes. Obviously, some of the basics won’t apply to you yet.
Whitecoatinvestor will be a blog worth searching for.
(0) Figure out monthly spend, and **keep out of debt** while doing the other steps at least to a minimum:
(1) Defined contribution Plan (401k/403b/457/TSP): choose low-fee TDF, at least max contribution to any full match. Set an auto-increase 1% in defined contribution plan every 6 or 12 months.
(2) Emergency fund: Vanguard cash-plus or Fidelity CMA, auto-transfer $20/mo in (max could be 12 months of budget – or more)
(3) HSA: have a HDHP that qualifies? Auto-invest Fidelity, $20/mo in FDKVX (max is $366/mo, $450/mo > 55†)
(4) RothIRA: have earned income that qualifies? Vanguard VTI or Fidelity FZROX, auto-invest $20/mo (max is $625/mo, $716/mo > 50†)
(5) FUN-fund: use HYSA or CD ladder or taxable invest and trickle in auto-transfer $20/mo toward vaca/car maint/future housing/toys. No upper limit.
Review contribution amounts above and tweak an increase every 3-6-12 months by at least $10/mo or 1%. †=2026 limits. Don’t allow debt into your life. Oh - and choose an S.O. that is on the same page as you wrt money

Valid question. Remember with a dividend yield that’s only part of it. Stocks also appreciate.
Take SCHD.
Let’s just hypothetical it out to 100/share as that’s easier. 3.7% dividend,6% growth.
This year I’d be paid $3.70, but the share would also go to $106. My total gain would be 9.7%.
Generally the dividend is then increased as well.
A HYSA only captures the 4% dividend equivalent, not the growth.

HYSA offers no opportunity for growth. Unless you’re only looking for income, most stocks have a healthy balance of dividends to growth.

Serious question, would it not be better to just use a HYSA if you’re getting less than 4%?

Sell everything and put into HYSA?

Im 19 and in a similar financial situation as you, and Ive moved majority of my money in my HYSA to my brokerage account.
My thought process is that since I’m young and with no immediate need for the money I hold, I should actively seek exposure to some risk in the market since I will probably be able to make up the loss in the long run.
It’s worked for me and I’m up 5-10% or so in the last few months, but I’ve definitely put in a bit of time researching, etc.
If you’re trying to go low risk, you can always just buy ETFs in your individual account after you max your Roth.

Yes, but wait until the next TACO or DCA. It’s at an ATH right now. You could always just open a Roth IRA and max it out. Put the rest in a HYSA you’ll have a couple years of cash you can max it out without have to save to do that.

Step one is to stop making enormous and sudden changes to your entire retirement portfolio. If you’d stayed in the market, you’d be up something like 8% since December.
Second, at retirement age, you are no longer in the phase where you need to be chasing higher returns with higher risk. You need a reliable and predictable return on money you might need over the next 5-10 years, and the rest can be in higher-returning investments.
Keep six months to a year in cash in HYSA and treasuries (for example SGOV). Keep 5+ years’ expenses in a bond fund (like BND). Keep the rest in equities (like VT). And then stop playing with it.

At your age that’s a huge nut not fully working for you. Great that you’re maxing the Roth but if you don’t have access to the 401k time to start loading the boat on Boglehead approved funds in a taxable brokerage. I would trim that HYSA by at least half and invest the rest of it immediately. Your future self will thank you.

Keep 6 months of expenses in the HYSA and put the rest in VT in a brokerage account like Schwab or Fidelity. Keep adding to the VT as often and as much as possible and then add bonds to the account as you get older based on risk tolerance.

The key question is whether you're saving that money for a large near term purchase, and/or whether it's functioning as a (secondary) emergency fund. If so, it shouldn't be in the market.
If you're unsure, I'd put it somewhere it's a little more liquid like a short term bond fund/HYSA while you think it over, to avoid having to wait a year or pay a penalty to withdraw early from the CD if you end up deciding on something else. You can get around 3% without locking it up anywhere.

New (23yo) Boglehead here. I've just recently started following the advice given in the stickied thread and some miscellaneous posts I've come across on this sub.
So far I've matched my employer's 401k match, contributed up to the limit for my Roth IRA for 2025+2026 and put all of the Roth IRA into VT (and plan to chill).
Here's where I would like some advice: I have a CD that is maturing today that contains a large amount of my savings (approximately $100k). I want to know what would be my best options for this money. Should I put it into a new CD (I can get 4% for 12mo through ETrade, I already made the account but not funded yet)? Should I put it into a brokerage account and invest in VT as well? Should I put it into a HYSA? Any advice would be great. I'm still learning about the available options but I'd love some immediate guidance considering I have limited time to withdraw from the CD and/or fund the new one.
A bit more about me: I have paid off all of my debts, I am living with family and have relatively low expenses. I live in an area with a HCOL. I value safety over risk, but I can realistically take risky options given my age and patience.