HYSA
BondBloxx USD High Yield Bond Sector Rotation ETF
stock NYSE ETF

The money in the HYSA is keeping up with inflation and taxes. Over the next 10 years the SP 500 should outpace the rate of your mortgage by a fair bit. Nothing feels better than to be debt free. The choice is very personal but having that much in savings earning little, and soon to be earning less, seems to be a poor one.
Good luck with your decision.
Art

$219,000k mortgage balance at 6.375% fixed interest rate, 29 years left. Pay off mortgage or invest the lump sum? I do not plan to keep home for 30 years, most likely will want to sell and buy something else in 5-10 years. Home value $400k.
36 years old married with two young kids. LCOL area. No other debt. $270K parked in a HYSA and $175k in brokerage mainly in VOO VT VTI.
Pay off mortgage knowing it’ll only be 10 years max of interest savings, or invest the sum to hopefully outpace the interest costs for the 10 years?

And voila I had to scroll to get an actual factual answer
I’m up if only barely since July but as long as it beats a HYSA and keeps funding my daily growth purchases ULTY wins for me 

The HYSA does not offer a debit card or checks to access SPAXX quickly. The Fidelity brokerage account or Cash Management Account does……and still pays high interest.

Have you estimated what your tax bill is going to be? There are plenty of online calculators if don't want to do the math.
I think you're going to find that the amount of dividend you can extract from $265k over a few months isn't going to make a dent in your tax bill.
It's one thing if you wanted to rebalance your portfolio for long term income. But I don't see the value of swapping temporarily when the value is quite limited. Is your $265k in cash/HYSA? If it's in other equities, you could trigger even more taxable events if selling at gains.

If you are primarily W2, why not just have taxes withheld from your paycheck? I owe very little (if anything) on tax day, and then easily make my budget based on my paycheck/take home pay. Are people trying to make money off of having it in a HYSA for a few months?

Di naman agad agad nawawala. Tama yung ibang comment feeling ko din may cycle. Free instapay lang yung masaya pero di din naman ramdam yung RM and sa branch my pila pa din. If di naman msyado nagtratransfer ng pera mas okay pa ilagay sa HYSA yung 1M mo.

Third option: don't pay the mortgage off early, but put the extra money you would be putting toward the mortgage into a MMA/HYSA to get 4.5% or more. After taxes, you're likely not money ahead; that's not the point. The point is you have extra cash on hand, and cash is king vs. having a paid off (or partially paid off) mortgage. Eventually you'll have enough to completely pay off your mortgage sitting in a MMA/HYSA and essentially be "mortgage-free" while still having a 3% fixed. If interest rates were to plummet and stay low, just take the money and pay down the note, and you're not worse off vs. if you'd been paying it off from the start.
You don't say your age. Pre-retirement, I really don't see the point to paying off a low interest mortgage early vs. other options. My mortgage would be paid off without early payments 2 years after I can retire at the earliest with pension. My plan is to have that 2 years of payments in a MMA/HYSA so I effectively don't have a mortgage payment and instead will be using the money from the MMA/HYSA to make the monthly payments once I hit retirement.

Did the same. We need to budget for a new roof every 10 years in FL, so a HYSA is our current plan.

"You actually want to use little money as possible out of pocket to purchase investment properties."
Maybe You want that. I prefer not to not to have to pay twice the cost of the property by paying interest, not to own a rental that can't return more than a HYSA earns, because it's highly leveraged, not to be at risk of feeding a project when there's vacancy, not to offer run down properties because they don't generate a decent return for reserves. Nothing cash flows like paid for property. 

Could split the emergency fund between a HYSA and VBIL.  20% Berkshire is wild to me.

Because Wall Street is not in the business to hand out free money, but some people don't seem to know that.
The only reason you get a return for your capital is because in exchange for risk, you are rewarded. On the safe side you have what is considered the risk-free return; what 10-year US bonds pay, and what HYSA that are federally insured return. Today, in the high interest rate environment we are, that means in the mid 4% range. The thing is; you don't get growth but you get that payment, and you have to consider that even without losing your investment, it is being eaten away by inflation (a dollar next year will buy you less than today).
The market return for market risk is around 10%. But there is a catch (no such thing as a free lunch); the market experiences volatility; up 20% this year, down 20% next year. But over long horizons, 10+ years, you are highly likely to get that return. If you need the money in the next few years, market risk for market return is not for you; the market may indeed be down in such a short period and consuming your capital can make it evaporate.
So; in order to have your cake and eat it too (you invest, and get a return, while hopefully growing your capital a bit to offset inflation), a safe return is probably around 5%. That means; you expect to get 5% yield, and hopefully a 3% growth on your principal, so it can keep up with inflation. Your total return would be 8%, which is lower than the market risk return, but you are giving up growth in exchange for stability of payments (Wall Street, not free money and all).
Anything that is yielding a market return of 10% comes with risks, as simple as that. Anything that is yielding above that is not only with risks, but unsustainable. If ULTY could indeed yield 100% without risk, why on earth would the ETF do it for a 2% return instead of just making all that money for themselves?

Vanguard Total US 60-ish% & Vanguard International 40-ish%. Set it, forget it, and only think about it when it’s time to increase your contributions.
The people selling you this plan will try to tell you it’s ok to take money out early if you change employers. Don’t do it.
Roth IRA is also an option available to you.
If you want to play with bonds at this point, SGOV in a taxable brokerage account works great as an emergency fund. No more CD ladders or trying to find the best HYSA.

HYSA

It's your children's money and generally the law doesn't let people make money off of other people's funds while they hold them. E.g. landlords can't make interest off of deposits etc.
Apart from that think about this for a minute. You want to risk all your kids money and then you want to keep the interest (reward for taking on the risk). No matter how you look at that it's not cool. If you do anything with the money stick with safe investments like HYSA or CDs. 12 years doesn't guarantee great returns. How would you feel if S&P AI bubble burst tomorrow and dropped to 3000?

Max our Roth in VOO
After that HYSA

If you need it in a year then find the highest rate CD you can find. Otherwise find a HYSA you like and drop it in there, but know the rates could drop. A CD would lock you in but be illiquid.

Purchase VTI. You'll own the entire S&P 500, in addition to small and mid-cap. I'd also recommend an international ETF like VXUS, but VTI is a great start. Before you do any of that though, open a HYSA and throw in 6 months worth of expenses in there. Lending Club is great as its at 4.2% right now.

I put money in SGOV, which is like cash anyway. Also, I have buckets in my HYSA for things like: next year’s taxes, intl travel, kid’s summer camp, etc

You could move this into investment such as SGOV and generate additional interest above the current HYSA. Remember the purpose of an emergency fund is to have liquid funds you could access "quickly" in the event of necessity but that doesn't necessarily mean they have to be directly in your bank account, just not tied up in a long term investment like a 24 month CD or retirement account where you would be penalized for early withdrawals.