AOR
iShares Core 60/40 Balanced Allocation ETF
stock NYSE ETF

I'm agnostic to a TDF or Fixed AA like AOR/AOR. Both have their use cases, and neither is an obvious winner. Most people want to shift to a "safer" AA around the start of retirement and it's a totally valid approach.
Academics are starting to come around that a static glide path from near 100% equities to 20% equities in retirement is maybe not optimal, but they also aren't fully on board with a fixed AA being optimal either.
Lifecycle investing is the "new" buzzword in academic land. It has one moving their AA around as things change, which is probably the optimal path, but it's hard to automate and even harder to determine the right mix ahead of time.
TDF's and Static AA's are probably "good enough" for most people though.

The more I learn about investing, the more I'm convinced that almost everyone would be better off with a TDF. Things like AOA/AOR are a close second.

They are part of the Blackrock/iShares Core Allocation family of ETF's: https://www.ishares.com/us/literature/product-brief/ishares-core-esg-allocation-brief.pdf
* AOA 80/20 stocks/bonds
* AOR 60/40 stocks/bonds
* AOM 40/60 stocks/bonds
* AOK 30/70 stocks/bonds
Vanguard has mutual funds that are very similar: https://investor.vanguard.com/mutual-funds/lifestrategy/#/
Fidelity has the 2 ends, FIKFX(20/80) and FFNOX(85/15).
Others exist, but as far as I know all others are just way too costly.

AOR = iShares 60/40 Balanced Allocation ETF
AOA = iShares 80/20 Balanced Allocation ETF
They have a lineup form 30/70 —> 80/20

Do you mind defining AOA/AOR?

Totally valid! I'm a fan of AOR too!

I’m 100% AOR in my mid-20s across all accounts for a similar reason. I debated AOR/AOA but figured the terminal balance of a 60/40 balanced fund shouldn’t be similar to a TDF held for life and my wife is less risk tolerance than me

>She selected a conservative return on purpose, despite living off her pension, having 400K in cash, and not needing to take a cent in withdrawals.
If she's not making any withdrawals, performance doesn't really matter other than her legacy.
Reward comes with risk. If she wants to keep with the advisor, she could have them take a little more risk. Otherwise, she needs a cheaper advisor and/or cheaper funds.
A rough estimate of estimated returns on portfolio visualizer with a 70/30 global equity/bond portfolio is in the 6-7% range for rolling returns on a 10-15 year period. The 70/30 portfolio based on [these Vanguard numbers](https://investor.vanguard.com/investor-resources-education/education/model-portfolio-allocation) is 7%.
With the 1% AUM, that would put you in the 5-6% range when you look at long term (10+ year) returns. So that would be the benchmark to aim for with the advisor. If it's coming out short, that shows the impact of the fund selection and expense ratios.
There are probably some single fund 70/30 static allocation options. There's AOA and AOR for 80/20 and 60/40.

Read through the links I suggested.
Personally, I'd skip the dividends (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5j9v9dfinQ) at this stage of life because in a taxable account, they'd just create tax drag and they do not necessarily add to your total return.
Personally, I'd either do (VTI + VXUS) or VT or AOA (which is a fixed allocation 80% equity/20% bond etf); there's also AOR if you want more bonds. Of course you could add bonds to VT or VTI+VXUS too. AOA just makes it easy.
Depending on how your house repairs fit into your budgeting and whether they come out of your $500k, that could change things.
Depending on how you feel after reading through the materials, it might not hurt to get professional input. Planvision is very reasonable and follows the boglehead approach.