CD
Chindata Group Holdings Limited
stock NASDAQ

Probably a CD so you can lock the rate in.
Brokered CD's are easy. Looks like you can lock in 12 months at 3.85%.

I have thought that how rare catastrophic events hit that it might make sense to have 3 months in cash for sure then 6 months but as you get to a pretty large brokerage it may make sense to push the cash equivalent back towards 3 months and not 6 months.
So say I spend 100k a year and save up to a net worth of $50k in a savings account maybe a CD. But as my net worth reaches say $500k and I have a positive equity on a house the options and needs for 6 months expenses are lower than when that was all of your net worth.

Who did you use for your CD and what rate did you get

Vanguard's VMFXX is a little higher (same as SPAXX) or SGOV eft (ultrashort treasuries), 30-day yield is currently 3.97% (3.93% avg yield to maturity). All fo these have the advantage of being able to withdraw/sell without penalty or risk at any time, and treasuries are not taxable by states (but you do pay federal tax).
If you don't mind locking the funds up, then you MAY be able to goose the rate up a little and be guaranteed with a bank CD. Shop around. Max is just slightly higher than treasuries (around 4%) and interest is taxable by state, so unless you find a good deal it's probably not worth it.

CDs .. I put 100K in a CD several months ago.

Sold my CD collection and a 27" screen.

So i looked into sofi and their 3.8 is like min need 5k in direct deposit or need membership for that so i was thinking of going to CD in chase bank fir 3.7

Money Market unless you know the exact date you'll need it then a CD.

With CD your money is locked up for whatever term you chose

Other than SWVXX ?
Or treasury bill or broker CD ?

Yes, its probably ideal unless you are retired and living off of it in which case keeping a few years expenses in a CD ladder and the rest in the S&P is safer.
Pick VOO or VTI and just keep adding…

Reading between the lines I am guessing this is for something along the lines of a down payment. Unless your CD has early termination without surrender that would be a very poor choice.

CD or money market with your timeline.

I gave Fidelity a few accounts to manage. Two IRAs and a after tax account. This is my experience, your's may vary.
Strategy for all accounts managed. I chose aggressive. I saw no particular advantage of paying for management if the style was anything less than aggressive. To pay a fee to be put into bond funds, or CD's seems ridiculous. I figured if I wanted to be less than aggressive, I would give them the aggressive percentage and buy my own CDs or tbills, or whatever constituted the less aggressive portion and not pay a percentage based on that portion.
The IRAs were managed using what Fidelity calls Fidelity US Large Cap Strategy. It has matched or slightly outperformed the SP500. Given they are IRAs, there is zero attendant tax loss harvesting or other advantage other than slightly outperforming the SP500. Value to this move is questionable and I have been ROTH converting these funds and buying VOO within the ROTH IRAs. Will I have Fidelity manage these, maybe but doubtful.
The after tax account is managed by what Fidelity calls Fidelity US Large Cap Index Strategy. This strategy has also matched or slightly outperformed the SP500 after fees. Where this strategy makes me happy to pay the management fees is that Fidelity uses a tax loss harvesting strategy that has saved me some decent money when it comes to tax time. This is valuable because I am in some high income years right now. As you probably know tax loss harvesting kicks the tax liability down the road but down the road, I will be in a significantly lower tax bracket and the capital gains that I will pay then is better than paying them now.
Caveats. 1) Fidelity may want to put your funds in proprietary issues. This means that you will have to sell your issue if you want to leave Fidelity and possibly need to sell the fund if you want to terminate your management. This can be tax-catastrophic if you are sitting on a lot of unrealized gains and it is in a non-IRA account and you want to leave. Obviously taxes on gains is not an issue in an IRA. You can avoid proprietary funds but this is something you need to bring up with your advisor. 2) In the large cap strategies, Fidelity will buy on your behalf a lot of different stocks. They are building a portfolio for you of maybe 200 or so equities. Should you decide to quit management and go to an ETF, you will have to sell each of these and buy whatever mutual fund or ETF you desire. This will generate cap gains at that time, no different than had you bought a large stable of stocks yourself. Not an issue if you did so in an IRA, just like caveat 1.
Thoughts. I really like my guy at fidelity and his "team" that helps him manage my needs. Everybody needs to make a buck and if Fidelity profits off of my money, I don't care as they are outperforming the fund that I would have invested in anyway. i.e., the SP500. I am certain that the success of advisors is tied to the number of clients that they have under management and the total amount of money under management. Since I like my guy, I am happy to support his career and consume those services. I appreciate that I can call and talk to someone that knows me personally and will work hard to help my in any question or need I have that is within the purview of my relationship with a brokerage. I was always treated well by Fidelity before I had assets under management. The future is good for maintaining my relationship with the after tax account, It is questionable for my IRA accounts. Not because of poor performance but because of a lack of tax loss harvesting being a "plus" to the management, I don't see a huge advantage.
Whenever you consider any financial plan, you need to look through it's entire life cycle. Watch out for tax issues during and after your relationship. I was lucky finding my advisor and I hope you are as well.
Art

In a high yield savings account or a 6-12 month CD.

CD? 

I am about 2/3 in cash equivalates and CD. But I am 76 years old and need some liquidity. Also, I may have time on my side. I would think 1/3 is a reasonable amount. But you have to have the nerve to invest it if the market goes down 50%. 30% to 50% bear markets are commo
There is nothing more frustrating than having your stocks decline by 50%, and knowing they will come back, but not having the cash to invest more! You have to have the nerve to invest more if it declines 50%. Position yourself to have a win-win. You win if it goes up. And you win if it goes down because you have the cash to buy low.
If your stocks have high PE's, you should allocate more to cash.
Consider a foreign bond fund like BWZ. If the dollar weakens it should appreciate.

Money market fund or a HYSA or a 1 year CD.

As others have said, holding treasuries in brokerages (SPAXX, SGOV) or in banks (HYSA, CD) are as safe as you can get. Things that hold treasuries (SPAXX, SGOV) have the benefit of being STATE tax-free. Consider CDs (I just got a 15mo at 4.2% APR) for funds you don't need for however long as PART of your holdings (do pay ordinary income tax on dividends, tho) since it locks in the rate for the term (if you think they'll keep cutting rates for a while). SPAXX is great for instant access, but SGOV (and similar) will give you a little better return (just under 4% atm).
If you want to dip your toe into investing outside equities, consider close-end bond funds (like iShares iBonds) that if you hold to maturity (from 1-10 years depending on the fund) you should get the YTM rate. You can get a little better rate going corporate bonds, but there is a risk of default (small on high quietly corp) and you'll pay tax on the dividends (paid out monthly). Or you could consider setting up a bond ladder/tent for short term treasury bonds. The idea is to have the funds from the bonds maturing match when you lan to invest (or need the money).
If your timeframe is 30+ years, DCA over 2 years starting now would be fine. If your timeline is shorter or you just do not want to risk it in the short term (hey, Warren Buffet has almost half his cash on the sidelines, too, so not that crazy), that's fine -- you do you. Honestly, it's better to underestimate your risk tolerance than overestimate it and panic sell when things drop.

If you look at it like your money is in a bank or a CD that you cannot touch for 10 years, you have to be disciplined hold